So about 15 miles (most likely less) into the break in. I come down from about 6500 rpms while doing a hard break in and the car stalls out on me. I jump start it back up and cruise to the next exit. The car stalls again. So we push it to the gas station, get it jump started and hear what sounds like rod knock. (me being in denial) says, no that aint. Drive it home, and the knock just makes it self so clear. Take out the drain bolt, and it looks like a brown metallic mess. It was like glitter glue of sorts. I spun number 1 and 2 rod bearings while doing damage to almost every bearing except for one main.
Now, before I hear - YOU BROKE IT IN IMPROPERLY! Sean from full function, as well as many other engine builders/race car builders get them fired up, change the oil, and throw them on the dyno. Just like that. They start hammering them on the dyno. My dyno is the street. So **** off.
Anywho. I think this was just gonna happen either way, regardless of break in. the crank was already cut once, this was the second time cutting her down-and an FYI Mitsu puts a nitride coating on our cranks from the factory that theoretically goes .0015ish deep into the metal. SOO in reality we shouldnt even CUT the crank at all.
The theory on why this happened-
lack of oil pressure has really been ruled out. I put my first EVER brand new OEM oil pump on this engine for piece of mind. I am glad I did, because that would have probably thrown me out of the game completly if I didnt get help by the shop that built the short block. Anywhoe.
Second theory- Failure to prime the engine Has been ruled out. I primed the engine on the stand. Changed the oil, and oil filter. Put it in the car with a fresh filter and oil. Primed it a second time, and confirmed the oil reaching the lifters through the oil cap.
THird theory- The OEM crank just DOES NOT LIKE TO BE CUT DOWN. The nitride coating on there was set forth by mitsu for a reason. It keeps things operating smoothly and within limits. I feel as if without the coating there, the bearing just did not have a chance.
Solution- UNCUT VIRGIN CRANK. The rods were reconditioned by the machine shop. They were magnafluxed and were found to be perfect with mere surface heating. The were cleaned up, and new rod bolts were used. ACL bearings went in this time instead of clevite.
So roughly a month later, the car is back up- and she is running stronger than evAr on a really easy tune. I broke her in gently. Gave her oil changes after idle, 30 miles, 50 miles, 100 miles. Next is the 500 mile oil change-which she has been tuned on.
I know Karl has some, as well as jimmy. Jesse should take some. Ariel, did your **** have issues or was it just a "time for a rebuild" type of thing?
if he had went with the prolite same thing might of happened weighs about the same as the fidanza...lighter is not always better there are pros out there that run a stock flywheel still in the Honda scene when drag racing...but if your talking road course then that a different story cause they are constantly going thru gears down shifting etc etc...
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R.I.P to the gifted allmotor stock b16 13.415 1.715 60' ALLMOTOR 11.60@117 1.63 60'
